old dog, new tricks…and here they come: tomatoes
Just when you thought Bien Cuit couldn’t possibly come up with another loaf to love in comes the multi-grain Pullman, my summer sandwich fling. If you are a Bien Cuit fan then you know about their pain de mie, their take on the classic Pullman, a stretch loaf with perfectly straight edges baked in a lidded pan. The pain de mie is perfect for breakfast, either to sop up whole milk for French Toast or to slather with some of Anna Maria’s apricot rose jam or the organic ginger pear jam from Laurelmaud’s Kitchen.
Though the traditional Pullman, was made with ho-hum white flour, this new multi-grain is packed with poppy and sesame seeds, millet, oats, rye, wheat, and buckwheat for a standout texture. The bread has a really wet dough so the crumb is disarmingly soft. It slices up and toasts beautifully. So delicious with a grainy mustard and slice of ham or cheese and arugula. The perfect foil for some sliced duck from Larchmont Charcuterie or for charcuterie from Mangalitsa (here this week).
The name “Pullman,” incidentally, was derived from its use in the compact kitchens of the Pullman railway cars. Three Pullman loaves to make sandwiches occupied the same space as two standard round-topped loaves, thus maximizing the use of space in the small Pullman kitchen.
TOMATOES are coming in. And Lordy, the ones from Letterbox Farm are insane this year. Once the tomatoes are here, you really must do what you can to eat as many as possible in as many different ways as possible. Blister them to serve over burgers and steaks. Skewer them in kebabs. And make a different tomato salad every day!
This David Tanis recipe for a Nicoise-style tomato salad, like most Tanis recipes, is simple yet special. (Can’t wait for his new “farmer’s-market driven” cookbook out this fall).
Pascale Le Draoulec
food writer/ farmer’s market director
author: “American Pie:Slices of Life (and Pie) from America’s Back Roads” (HarperCollins)